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LET’S TALK ABOUT DETOXING & WHY IT MATTERS FOR YOUR CURLS

Before starting a detox routine, it’s important to understand what’s actually happening to your hair.

The outer layer of your hair is called the cuticle. Think of it like shingles on a roof — its job is to protect the inner layers of the hair (the cortex and medulla). When these shingles are clean and open, water and moisture can easily enter the hair. When they become coated or clogged, moisture can’t get in — and that’s when curls begin to feel dry, frizzy, heavy, or unmanageable.

One of the biggest causes of dehydrated curls is buildup.

Curly hair loves to feel clean, lightweight, and hydrated — not coated. When buildup sits on the hair, it blocks water from reaching the inside of the strand. Even the best products won’t work properly if they can’t penetrate the hair.

The 3 ways that make up a hair strand

  • The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair shaft, resembling fish scales or shingles on a roof, with edges that slightly overlap. Healthy hair has closed cuticles, while damaged hair has open cuticles making it vulnerable and frizzy. The cuticle plays a crucial role in protecting the cortex beneath it.

  • The context determines your hair color, curl pattern, and hair diameter. When using color, it penetrates and changes this layer. If this layer is damaged, the may lose its tightness or curl pattern.

  • The medulla is present only in medium and coarse hair types. Hair that contains this layer tends to be stronger more resistant.

Hair diameter plays a big role in how your curls behave because it affects strength, flexibility, moisture retention, and how well your curl pattern holds its shape. Curly and coily strands often have more variation in thickness along the strand (and more bends/turns), which creates natural “weak points.” That’s why tighter curl patterns can feel more fragile, get dry faster, and break more easily—especially when the cuticle is rough or stressed.

Thicker strands usually have more structural support and can tolerate more tension, heat, and styling, while finer strands can feel softer and more delicate and may get weighed down or snap more easily if buildup or dryness is present.

No matter your diameter, curls depend on:

  • Cuticle health (smooth cuticles = less tangling, more shine, better moisture balance)

  • Internal bonds that help form your curl pattern

    • Hydrogen bonds (change with water + drying, which is why wash day and diffusing matter)

    • Disulfide bonds (stronger bonds that influence long-term shape and can be altered by chemical services)

Your strand diameter can also change over time due to genetics, hormonal shifts, stress, medication, nutrition, and scalp health, and the shape of the follicle plays a role in how curly (and how uneven) the strand grows.

Porosity Low Medium and High
Porosity Floating Test

Porosity affects curly hair because it controls how easily water and products get into your hair—and how quickly moisture escapes. Since curls naturally struggle with moisture (because oils and hydration don’t travel down bends as easily), porosity can make a routine feel either effortless or frustrating.​

PRODUCT BUILDUP: THE MOST COMMON CULPRIT

If your hair feels:

  • Dull or lifeless

  • Greasy at the scalp but dry at the ends

  • Frizzy or undefined

  • Heavy or coated

  • More prone to breakage

  • Like your products “used to work but don’t anymore”

…there’s a good chance you’re dealing with product buildup.

Many styling products contain silicones, oils, and butters that can cling to the hair over time. While these ingredients may feel good at first, they are not water-soluble and often require a clarifying shampoo to fully remove them. Over time, they create a barrier that prevents moisture from entering the hair.

This is why detoxing is so important for curl health.

Dry, frizzy curls that have never had a detox or clarifying wash.

High porosity curls

What’s happening: The cuticle is more open/gapped, so water gets in quickly—but escapes quickly too.
What you notice:

  • Hair absorbs water fast, then dries fast

  • Frizz, tangles, and breakage show up more

  • Curls can feel dry again soon after wash day

  • Products “disappear” quickly
    Why: Moisture leaves the strand easily, so curls need consistent hydration and cuticle support.

Low porosity curls

What’s happening: The cuticle is tighter/flat, so water and products have a harder time getting in.
What you notice:

  • Water beads up on the hair

  • Products feel like they sit on top

  • Hair gets weighed down easily

  • Takes longer to dry

  • Buildup happens faster
    Why: Moisture can’t penetrate easily, so hair can feel “coated but still dry.”

Medium/normal porosity curls

What’s happening: The cuticle is balanced—moisture gets in and stays more predictably.
What you notice: Products perform more consistently and wash days feel easier.

Bottom line: Porosity explains why your curls either resist moisture, lose it too fast, or build up easily—and it helps you choose the right cleansing, conditioning, and water-soluble products for your routine.

HARD WATER & MINERAL BUILDUP

Product buildup isn’t the only issue — hard water buildup is just as impactful.

Hard water contains minerals like calcium and magnesium that can attach themselves to your hair and scalp. Over time, these minerals create a chalky residue that:

  • Makes hair feel dry and brittle

  • Causes curls to lose definition

  • Interferes with moisture and treatments

  • Makes hair harder to cleanse properly

Even if you’re using great products, hard water can prevent them from working the way they should.

Hard Water Testing Strip

HARD WATER DETOX: AT HOME & IN THE SALON

For mineral buildup specifically, Malibu C Hard Water Shampoo and Conditioner and Treatment is an excellent option and can be done both at home or in the salon.

This treatment works by:

  • Breaking down mineral deposits

  • Removing hard water residue

  • Helping restore softness, shine, and curl definition

In the salon, this treatment allows me to fully reset your curls and prep them for styling or treatments. At home, it’s a great way to maintain results between visits if you live in a hard water area.

Hard Water Shampoo and Conditioner From Malibu C

DETOXING WITH CLARIFYING SHAMPOO

Detoxing always begins with a clarifying shampoo. One of my go-to favorites is Malibu C UN•DO•GOO. This shampoo is designed to gently but effectively remove product buildup without stripping your curls when used correctly.

During a detox phase:

  • Wash your hair 2–3 times per wash with a clarifying shampoo

  • Start with a clarifying shampoo (follow the directions on the bottle) Un-Do-Goo has a higher PH to help open the cuticle and cleanse the hair hair not only on the out side but in the hair shaft it's self.

  • Follow with your regular shampoo it will have a lower PH and will help close the cuticle back down.

  • Always finish with a conditioner or deep conditioner

Buildup didn’t happen overnight — and it won’t disappear in one wash.

A realistic detox timeline is 4–8 weeks, depending on how much buildup is present and what products have been used previously.

SIGNS YOU NEED A DETOX

You may benefit from a detox if you notice:

  • Your curls feel dry no matter how much moisture you add

  • Products sit on top of your hair instead of absorbing

  • Hair feels heavy, sticky, or coated

  • Your scalp feels itchy or congested

  • Curl definition has faded

  • Hair feels brittle or snaps easily

If any of these sound familiar, detoxing is a great place to start.

MAINTAINING CLEAN, HEALTHY CURLS

Once buildup is removed, maintenance becomes much easier.

After your detox phase:

  • Detox 1–2 times per month

  • Clarify as needed based on product use and water quality

  • Always follow with moisture — detoxing can temporarily dry the hair if not balanced properly

If you have heavy buildup, it’s okay to do multiple clarifying washes in a row, as long as moisture is added back in afterward.

The goal of detoxing isn’t to strip your hair — it’s to create a clean foundation so your curls can absorb water, respond to products, and thrive long-term.

Cuticle-  The cuticle is your hair’s protective layer, composed of overlapping cells.

Cortex -  The cortex forms the main bulk and pigment (colour) of your hair. It consists of long keratin filaments, which are held together by disulfide and hydrogen bonds. The health of your cortex depends largely on the integrity of the cuticle protecting it.

Medulla - the medulla is a loosely packed, disordered region near the center of the hair surrounded by the cortex, which contains the major part of the fiber mass, mainly consisting of keratin proteins and structural lipids.

Detox- It rids your hair of suffocating buildup while nourishing the scalp. It helps stimulate hair follicles, allowing for hair growth and clears the scalp of dandruff, acne, and scabbing.

Dehydrated - Hair that lacks hydration (a.k.a. dehydrated hair) typically looks dull and feels rough. Additionally, it's tough to style, extra oily, lacks volume, and split ends are much more noticeable. In appearance, it's very similar to dry hair which is why it can be tough to distinguish between the two.

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