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DRYING & DIFFUSING YOUR CURLS

This is where patience pays off — and where curl definition is protected.

Drying curly hair is not about speed; it’s about preserving the curl clumps and definition you created during styling. No two curl wash-and-style days will ever dry the same way, and that’s completely normal. Learning how to dry your curls in a way that works for your hair and lifestyle is key.

TOOLS THAT MATTER

You’ll need:

  • A blow dryer

  • A diffuser attachment

  • A large diffuser whenever possible

Diffuser size matters more than most people realize. Smaller diffusers don’t soften airflow, which can cause curl clumps to shatter and blow apart — leading to frizz. Our goal up to this point has been curl clumping and definition, and protecting that definition during drying is what helps control frizz long-term.

TOWEL REMINDER (YES, IT MATTERS HERE TOO)

Before diffusing, you should have already removed excess water using:

  • Flour sack towels

  • Tea towels

  • Microfiber towels

Avoid cotton towels. Cotton causes friction, absorbs too much moisture, and disrupts curl clumps — which shows up later as frizz.

HEAT & AIRFLOW SETTINGS

Start with:

  • Medium to high heat

  • Low to medium airflow

You can play with heat levels based on comfort, but airflow should stay low to medium. High airflow lifts the hair too aggressively and creates frizz by disturbing curl clumps before they’ve had a chance to set.

Every dryer is different — watch your heat settings. You don’t want to “cook” your curls.

PHASE 1: HOVER DIFFUSING

Begin by hover diffusing.

  • Hold the diffuser slightly away from your hair

  • Do not touch or scrunch the curls yet

  • Focus on drying without movement

Hover diffusing allows the outer layer of the curl to begin setting while keeping curls elongated. This step is especially important if you prefer less shrinkage and more length.

Think of your head in four zones:

  • Top

  • Bottom

  • Side to side

Rotate between sections until your hair is partially dry. Try not to move your curls too much while they’re still very wet — wet hair is mobile hair, and too much movement can cause frizz.

PHASE 2: DIFFUSING FOR ROOT DRY & VOLUME

Once your curls begin to feel more set, you can start using the diffuser bowl.

  • Gently collect small sections of hair into the diffuser

  • Raise the diffuser toward the scalp

  • Let curls rest in the bowl as they dry

This motion is similar to towel drying — slinking curls upward and allowing them to dry closer to the scalp. This step helps dry the roots but also increases shrinkage, so if you want looser curls or more length, do this sparingly.

The longer curls sit inside the diffuser bowl, the more shrinkage you’ll see.

FIND A COMFORTABLE ROUTINE

Dry your hair in positions that feel natural and sustainable for you:

*Upright * Side to side * Gently flipping upside down

Rotating positions helps balance volume and comfort. Avoid over-manipulating the curls — no scrunching while drying. Touching curls too much during this phase can break apart clumps and cause frizz.

SHRINKAGE VS. ELONGATION

Shrinkage happens when curls are held in a compressed position while drying.

  • Hover diffusing → more length, less shrinkage

  • Bowl diffusing → more volume, more shrinkage

You can mix both techniques to customize your results.

Root control also starts earlier than drying:

  • How you brush your hair

  • The direction you style it

  • Whether you use clips or over-direct

If you prefer less volume, avoid clips and excessive over-direction during styling.

THE CAST (YES, IT’S A GOOD THING)

As your hair dries, you’ll notice a cast — curls may feel firm, crunchy, or stiff. This is a sign that your styling products have set properly.

A cast:

  • Locks in moisture

  • Protects curl definition

  • Helps curls last longer

Don’t panic — this is temporary.

IF YOU NEED TO RESET

If frizz becomes too much or curls lose their shape:

  • Stop

  • Add water

  • Reapply product if needed

Water always comes first. Every time.

Wet hair is mobile hair — it allows curls to reset and behave the way you want them to.

SCRUNCH OUT THE CRUNCH (SOTC)

Once your hair is fully dry, it’s time to soften the curls.

Use dry hands only — no oils.

Methods:

  • Roping: Gently walk your hands down small sections, pulsating as you go

  • Scrunching: Lightly gather curls from the ends and squeeze upward

The more you scrunch and fluff, the bigger and softer your hair becomes — but also frizzier. This isn’t a bad thing.

We call this workable frizz — the kind of frizz that creates volume and can be shaped or refreshed easily later.

ONE LAST NOTE

Weather and humidity can change how your curls dry day to day. Your routine should be flexible — not rigid. All the sections of this curl guide work together to help you adapt and adjust as needed.

Frizz  -  Lack of hydration and moisture or has been manipulated too much.

Plopping -  A heatless drying technique that involves wrapping your hair into a Microfiber towel or T-shirt to air-dry.

Microfiber Towel - A synthetic fabric consisting of ultra-fine fibers.

Tea Towel - Thin towel made of linen or cotton.

Cast - A hard shell that forms around the hair to help hold in moisture, and set the curl.

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